Glossary

Ablation: the process by which tissue is surgically destroyed.

Abrasion: The loss of surface skin tissue (epidermis) due mainly to scrapes.

Accutane (13-CIS-RETINOIC ACID): effective prescription treatment for sever (ie., cystic or nodular) acne but with serious side effects.

Achromycin V®: an oral antibiotic often prescribed for rosacea.

Acne: a systemic inflammatory disease characterized by skin eruptions.

Acne Lesions: (pimples, blackheads, whiteheads): acne lesions are categorized in 5 grades:

• Grade 1 includes miniscule microcomedones and the more easily noticeable comedones (whiteheads and blackheads traditionally but erroneously referred to as “noninflammatory” acne lesions).
• Grade 2 lesions are papules – the small, pink, visibly inflamed bumps that are tender to the touch, and which conventional science recognizes as inflammatory.
• Grade 3 acne lesions are pustules – lesions with more visible inflammation than papules.
• Grade 4 acne lesions are nodules – large, painful, solid lesions extending deep into the skin accompanied by visible inflammation.
• Grade 5 acne lesions are cysts – inflamed, pus-filled lesions extending deep into the skin. This occurs when several nodules merge resulting in a giant lesion.

Adrenal hormones: cortisol, DHEA and adrenaline are the three adrenal stress hormones.

Alopecia areata: A disease characterized by the appearance of well-defined, round or oval bald patches on the head and on other parts of the body. The condition usually reverses itself but may require treatment.

Alopecia totalis: A condition that involves the loss of the scalp hair.

Alpha hydroxy acids: natural exfoliating acids derived from fruit, milk and sugar cane that have anti-inflammatory properties.

Alpha lipoic acids (thiotic acid): the ‘universal antioxidant’, it is both water and fat soluble, a characteristic that gives it the unique ability to reach all portions of the cell, providing superior protection from free radical damage and inflammation. It also helps restore the antioxidant powers of vitamins C and E after they have depleted.

Amino acids: molecules that the body uses to make proteins. Eight dietary amino acids are essential to human life.

Androgens (androgenic hormones): steroidal hormones, such as testosterone or androsterone, that control the development and maintenance of masculine characteristics. Androgens occur naturally in both sexes and tend to stimulate oil production in the skin by binding to a special receptor on the oil gland. A special enzyme present in the oil gland converts androgens, such as testosterone, into a more powerful acne-promoting androgen called dihydrotestosterone (DHT).

Anti-inflammatories: chemical substances that tend to reduce inflammation in the body.

Anti-oxidants: substances that prevent or reverse the development of free radicals.

Atrophic scar: deep, indented scar resulting from collagen loss.

Basal layer: the bottom layer of the epidermis that produces new skin cells.

Benzoyl peroxide: popular acne medication that is available both in over-the-counter and through prescription. Its effectiveness comes from its antibacterial acne medication that also acts as a peeling agent and may limit the secretion of certain oils that contain fatty acids, which contribute to acne flare-ups.

Blackhead: a dark acne lesion consisting of a plug of keratin and sebum. Only a physician should extract plugs, since damage to the surrounding tissues occasioned by squeezing can lead to scarring. Contrary to conventional medical belief, blackheads are characterized by inflammation.

Clindamycin: an antibiotic drug used to treat acne and bacterial infections.

Closed comedo (whitehead): a small, firm, pearly-white acne lesion caused by retention of keratin in a sebaceous gland duct that has been blocked by a thin layer of skin cells. Contrary to conventional medical belief, whiteheads are characterized by inflammation. Any attempt to eliminate white heads by squeezing or picking can aggravate the inflammatory process.

Collagen: the protein fibers that give skin strength and flexibility.

Comedogenic agents: ingredients in cosmetics that tend to clog pores and cause or promote comedones (acne lesions).

Corticosteroid: Any of the natural or synthetic hormones produced in the adrenal cortex, which can be used to control inflammation. Used very commonly as a medication in dermatology.

Contact dermatitis: A skin rash resulting from an allergic compound to which an individual has been exposed. Poison ivy poison sumac are classic examples of contact dermatitis.

Cyst: an abnormal membranous sac containing a gaseous liquid, or semi-sold substance.

Cystic acne: A severe form of acne distinguished by large cysts and eventual scarring.

Dermis: the lower layer of the skin that contains nerve endings, sweat glands, and collagen and elastin fibers.

Demodex folliculorum: A mite that lives in the hair follicles of the face and nose.

Dermabrasion: A treatment to remove scars and wrinkles with diamond fraize, revolving wire brushes, or sandpaper; largely supplanted by newer technology such as laser.

Dermatitis: An inflammatory skin condition that is manifested by redness, irritation, and even blisters. Dermatitis may result from an allergen, disease or infection.

Dermis: The second layer of the skin found right beneath the epidermis. It contains blood and lymphatic vessels, hair follicles, nerves and glands.

Elastin fibers: protein fibers that, along with collagen, are responsible for the strength, elasticity and texture of the skin.

Emollient: agent (typically a moisturizer) that softens or soothes the skin.

Epidermis: the outer or surface layer of the skin.

Epithelial cells: skin and the mucous membranes lining the internal body surfaces.

Erythromycin: An antibiotic used frequently when a person is allergic to penicillan.

Essential fatty acids: two types of fatty acids are essential to human health, omega-3 and omega-6. As key structural components of cell membranes, EFAs bar foreign molecules, viruses, yeasts, fungi and bacteria from entering cells, and they help to control the flow of chemical compounds in and out of cells.

Estrogen: ‘female’ hormone that actually occurs naturally in both sexes.

Exfoliation: peeling of the outer layer of skin, typically by use of a mild abrasive material; or the natural process by which a skin cell gradually migrates to the surface and is sloughed off.

Follicle: a minute depression in the skin, such as those from which hair emerges.

Free radicals: unstable molecules that produce inflammation and promote aging and disease.

Glycemic index: scale that rates foods from one to 100 according to their impact on blood sugar levels.

Hyperpigmentation: Pigmentation producing darker than usual skin.

Hypertropic scar: enlarged, raised scar, made up of an excess of collagen that develops during healing.

Impetigo: A contagious skin infection caused by staphylococcal bacteria, exhibiting small pustules that can cluster quickly into large blisters.

Inflammation: a biochemical response to injury or infection ranging from the invisible cellular level to the visible, characterized by pain, redness, swelling and sometimes loss of function. Inflammation can also be produced throughout the body by an excess of free radicals stemming from dietary factors such as sugars and other proinflammatory foods which lead to aging and age-related diseases.

Keloid: a red, raised formation of fibrous scar tissue caused by excessive tissue repair in response to trauma or infection.

Keratin: the protein that is the primary constituent of hair, nails and skin.

Keritanization: the process of maturation of basal skin cells as they move toward the surface of the skin and become the stratum corneum.

Laser light therapy: treatment of acne with a specific wavelength of light that destroys the propionibacterium acnes.

Lesion: Used in dermatology to refer to a wound, sore, blister or other form of tissue damage caused by injury or disease.

Macule: A flat spot on the skin. It may range from white to dark brown or even black.

Melanin: The dark pigment found in human skin, hair and eyes.

Melanocyte: cell in the skin that produces and contains the pigment melanin.

Microcomedo: first and smallest type of acne lesion that occurs at the earliest stages when the follicle walls are just beginning to be stretched by trapped sebum. Microcomedones cannot be seen without a microscope.

Noncomedogenic: not pore clogging.

Oleic acid: monounsaturated fatty acid found in olive oil and peanuts that helps omega-3 oil pass in to the cell membrane.

Omega-3 fatty acid: anti-inflammatory essential fatty acid found in fish, oatmeal, nuts and soy products.

Open comedo (blackhead): dark-colored acne lesion consisting of a plug of keratin and sebum. The dark color derives from melanin (skin pigment) not dirt. Contrary to medical belief, blackheads are characterized by inflammation. Any attempt to eliminate blackheads by squeezing or picking can aggravate the inflammatory process.

Papule: a small; solid usually inflammatory lesion of the skin that does not contain pus.

Phenols (polyphenols or phenolics): powerful antioxidants found in tea, chocolate, red wine, grape juice and many herbs and vegetables. Phenols fight inflammation and cell damage that leads to chronic conditions such as cancer and heart diseases. Special phenols in tea called catechins appear to aid in weight control.

Proinflammatory: promoting inflammation.

Propionibacterium acnes: bacterium, commonly found in the sebaceous glands of human ski, that releases lipases (fat-digesting enzymes) to digest sebum. The combination of digestive byproducts (fatty acids) and bacterial antigens (irritants) stimulates an intense local inflammation that ruptures the follicle. A lesion then forms on the surface of the skin in the form of a pustule.

Prostaglandins: group of short-lived but potent hormone-like substances produced in human tissues from arachidonic acid. Prostaglandins mediate a wide range of physiological functions, such as control of blood pressure, contraction of smooth muscle, and modulation of inflammation. Some are proinflammatory, while others are anti-inflammatory.

Psoriasis: a chronic, inheritable skin disorder characterized by red patches covered by thick, dry, silvery scales. These patches usually appear on the scalp, elbows and knees. Ears and genitalia may also be affected.

Pustule (pimple): a small swelling.

Radio wave therapy: acne therapy in which the surface of the skin is heated with radio waves after being cooled with liquid nitrogen.

Retention hyperkeratosis: excessive build-up of skin cells in follicles. These dead skin cells combine with oil in the follicle to create a plug that traps acne-promoting bacteria. Retention hyperkeratosis is triggered by inflammation and mediated by cytokines such as interleukin-1.

Retin-A (tretinoin, 13-cis-Retinoic acid or Retin-A acid): acidic form of vitamin A, active in skin. When applied topically, it normalizes the desquamation inside the follicle, helping to loosen clogs. Retin-A promotes inflammation. Retinol, the alcohol form of vitamin A, is used in cosmetics because it is converted into the skin to small amounts of Retin-A.

Retinoids: natural or synthetic derivatives of vitamin A.

Rosacea: chronic inflammation of the nose, chin or forehead, characterized by redness or acne-like eruptions.

Scleroderma: Autoimmune disease affecting the connective tissue and the blood vessels that causes the thickening and hardening of the connective tissue of the skin and other organs.

Sebaceous glands: skin glands located throughout the body that produce sebum, the fatty substance which, under the right circumstances, can help clog pores and produce acne.

Sebum: the semi-fluid secretion of the sebaceous glands, consisting chiefly of fat, keratin and cellular material.

Somatic: of or affecting the body.

Stratum corneum: the topmost layer of the epidermis, made of dead, flat skin cells that shed about every two weeks.

Subcutaneous: located just beneath the skin.

Telangiectasia: Small, dilated blood vessels usually seen on the face: also known as broken blood vessels.

Testosterone: steroid hormone produced primarily in the testes but also in small quantities in the ovaries, adrenal glands and placenta.Testosterone production is stimulated in part by high blood levels of insulin, which rise in response to excessive dietary sugars. The sebaceous glands produce more sebum in response to high levels of testosterone, and acne is promoted by an overabundance of sebum. Thus, testosterone tends to promote acne.

Tetracycline: antibiotic drug used to treat acne and bacterial infections.

Vitiligo: white patches on the skin caused by the absence of melanocytes.

Whitehead (closed comedo): a small, firm, pearly white acne bump caused by retention of keratin (skin protein) in an oil gland duct that has been blocked by a thin layer of epithelium (skin cells). Whiteheads are characterized by inflammation.